Rio

The last few days in Ilha Grande were sadly tainted by lots of rain. We didn't get to do anything we had wanted to because it was pouring with rain so much. One of the days we spent having a long afternoon nap, the other just chilling in the pousada. On one of the days Rory and Bev (Magia's mum and stepdad) braved it out on a boat trip which they said was lovely even though they got soaking wet. On the next day, only Rory braved the rain as a proper english man does! Such a shame as the island has loads of things to do, in particular lots of treks through the jungle but I guess for us it was just not meant to be. It was a good opportunity to rest though, and just relax.

On the 28th we all left for Rio. We got on the boat and headed towards Angra from which we were planning to get the bus. When we arrived in the port though there were loads of people offering taxi rides and so in the end we got into one of those as the price they were offering us was good. The driver drove in true Brazilian style: fast and overtaking people on double white lines! But he got us there in very good time as a result. We were lucky because the weather was relatively nice too and so as we came in to Rio we had a clear view. No view of the Christ though, I didn't see him until yesterday. The cab took us all the way to the place where Bev Jess and Rory were all staying, which is in Santa Teresa. Originally I was meant to be renting a room from a friend of Magia's (Magia=Jess by the way) but then they suggested I stay with them for not much more anyway, and since the place is so lovely I agreed. We are staying in the most incredible private house up in Santa Teresa. The people who own it rent out rooms during the high season in order to make a bit more money. It has this gorgeous inner courtyard with a swimming pool and an amazing area for sitting outside. The house itself is white on the outside and sort of in a colonial style. Inside it is just amazing, wood panneled floors and doors, lots of space, lovely bedrooms...It is quite a big house as it also has a few rooms underground/in the basement. The basement isn't really a basement though as it connects to outdoors. Does that make sense? Anyway it is just lovely and the bathroom is fantastic as is the bedroom, and the breakfast, and the hosts who are just lovely! They are two artists, one Swiss and one Brazilian who have been working together for years. They are a very interesting pair. Anyway, enough said about the house I suppose....

In the evening we went for dinner in the local restaurant and then ended up in the street where there was a party going on. The local bar had a samba band playing and the music and people spilled out onto the street, turning it into a street party. It had the really nice feeling of one of those summer evenings when everyone is outside in the street enjoying the warmth and being happy. As the evening went on we met up with quite a few of Jess's friends and also, somehow, managed to meet some other tourists. Then we decided to head off to another party somewhere so we all got into a van and off we went. Then somehow, we ended up at a Baile Funk party in a favela. Santa Teresa is surrounded by 5 favelas so basically they are never far away. Baile Funk is a type of music that is really not so exciting musically or lyrically but is typical of Rio and favelas. It basically involves lots of dirty lyrics and has a beat a bit like reggaeton I suppose, except different. Maybe this link might explain it better. Anyway, I had a very small moment where I was a bit unnerved by the fact that we were in a favela, but I was with Max and Jess and I totally trusted them and their judgement of where we were. Also, we were quite a large group of people. So I basically felt completely safe and did not worry at all, and just acted like I would have done anywhere else. The place was busy and full of people just standing around digging the music. The favela had an amazing view over the port of Rio and that was quite impressive. There were quite a few people walking around with guns. Either they had them in their waist and were flashing them occasionally just to let you know they had them, or they were properly "waving" them around for all to see. Strangely enough this didn't bother me and I just ignored them which I reckon is the best policy anyway. I figured that really all they were doing with them was showing off and making a statement and therefore we were not in any real danger. There was another english guy with us though who was totally freaking out and couldn't cope with the guns. He kept freaking out every time he saw someone go by with one. At the end we were sitting by this house and lads kept going by on motorbikes showing off, and as we were all leaving one of the boys (english guy) had gone off for a pee in the corner. At this point two lads went past us on a motorbike and one of them was carrying a gun. This totally freaked out the other english guy who was like "oh my god oh my god they had a gun, we have to go and get so and so" and you could tell he was really worried and Max had to calm him down and tell him it was ok and that they weren't going to shoot this other guy, they were just showing off. But I felt sorry for him because he really was scared. Anyway we all made it home safe and sound and I thought it was an amazing experience, going to the favela, going to a baile funk party and experiencing the dancing and the music. When I say amazing about the favela I don't mean this in a voyeuristic way either as in "ooh wow I saw a Favela, I saw their poverty" but more as in an amazing experience of have been able to go there and blend in and not freak out and constantly feel threatened, and instead just to enjoy myself.

Yesterday the weather was amazing and we started out by having breakfast by the pool. After that I decided it was time to go and explore Rio and do as much as poss in the good weather. Rory had planned an expedition by cab and all sorts of stuff to see and do but I decided I would rather spend the day alone and just explore the city in a normal way by public transport, and to just blend in and live the city. So I got a ride with Rory and the others to the bank and then left them to go and get the bus into town. A nice old lady accompanied me to the bus stop and waited with me til it came, then I got it to the metro and took that into Copacabana. The metro is big fast and efficient, and also freezing cold compared to out of doors! Anyway I got to Copacabana in the blazing sun, beautiful beach and sand, and felt so excited to be in Rio! Finally I was seeing this amazing city I have heard so much about. I walked all the way down Copacabana beach which was packed full of people, and just took in the sight, and walked to Ipanema. Then I walked down that beach and then turned in a bit to see the lake that is formed right near Ipanema. By doing that I happened upon the busy streets of Ipanema with shops and bars and cafes and all that. I looked for the Christ from the lake and couldn't see him so postponed my visit, but then I finally did see him and it looked fantastic so I got a cab to Cosmo Velho to go up. The ticket I bought though was for a train that was only an hour and a half later, and by that point I was exhausted having slept only about 4 hours and then walked all day. There was nowhere to sit and nowhere to eat so I decided to give my ticket back and go another day instead. Considering the rain today I kind of regret the decision but I was just way too tired to do it. Hopefully there will be another good day for me to go.

In the evening I went and met up with the Aussies down in Copacabana and had dinner with them in a place they had found. Then we went down to the beach and walked along it. At first I was sceptical as I wanted to go to a samba party with Magia, but in the end it turned out to be great because there was a huge ceremony going on down at the beach. It was a candomble /orixa ceremony for the goddess of the sea. There were loads of people dressed in white, and Baiana ladies in their big white skirts, and there were candles all over the beach and flowers and music. It was fantastic to see! We went down to the waterfront where there were the most people and I asked a man what was going on. He explained to me that they were making an offering to the goddess of the sea, for her to take away all the bad things of 2008 and bring them good things for 2009. The offerings are put in a boat and then they set the boat out to sea with all the offerings and off it goes. They were having a bit of difficulty doing that though because the waves were so big. Anyway this was a traditional end of year ceremony and I was so glad and excited to have experienced something like that out of the blue!!! Such an incredible experience! Then we just kept walking and on our way so a little roda de samba which got me well excited too! :-) All in all a very successful day except for the fact that I was so exhausted. Finally we all piled in to a cab together and got absolutely ripped off to go home which was not so cool, but at least we made it back. I think that is more than enough for now as this post is huge! Really excited about New Year's eve on Copacabana tomorrow!!!